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What is the value of a hand like 76s heads up? Let’s say there’s a single limper to you on the button with tight players in the blinds, such that your raising will probably get you heads up, with position, on the limper. Would you consider isolating with this hand? Of course, it depends (knew that was coming) on how well you play flop and beyond, but assuming you’re a reasonably strong flop-beyond player, is 76s strong enough heads-up to win its fair share? Typically we tend to think of such a hand as a drawing hand that thrives on implied odds, yada yada, but something I think that is frequently overlooked is the number of semibluffs a T9s-65s gives you on boards like K87. Some people will argue to the death that 76s will never win unimproved, but of course they neglect the fact that it can do just that, if you can get your opponent to lay down over cards. The worst thing that can happen to a middle suited connector is, of course, to be up against an over pair. This presents a problem. If you’re facing the average UTG limper, you have no way of knowing whether you’re against TT which dominates your hand and then some, or just a meek AJo that you can bully. On the flop, I’ll typically play second pair/no kicker/three-flush heads-up as hard as I’d play AK on a king-high flop, meaning usually betting or making it two bets, occasionally three bets, but rarely four bets. Is this overplaying? Or perhaps I should just stick to the standard “thrives on implied odds” mantra and muck the damn thing BTF. What do you think?

Answer 1:

You can’t squeeze blood from a stone, and you can’t squeeze pos. e.v. from 76s head-up, no matter how hard you try (especially against weaker players, who don’t know that they should lie down their over pair to your semi-bluff).

Answer 2:

This hand has little or no value. Odds of a drawing hand ARE important. Even if you guessed that you could bluff with this hand, making no pair, 40% of the time, you are still not winning enough money to make it worthwhile. What you are setting up is an ugly scenario. If your opponent has a weak hand, and misses the flop completely, he checks the flop, you bet, he folds. You’ve made a total of 2 bets profit (plus blinds). Or, if he hits the flop, he checks, you bet, he raises. Now you are screwed, and you better find a way to make two pair or a flush to win the hand. If you bet, and he just calls, now what do you do? Assuming you have missed on the flop, or even hit one pair, his call must tell you he probably has you beat. Do you keep betting, assuming you don’t improve on the turn, or give up at this point? If you bet the turn and he calls again, you are definitely beat (let’s assume this is an average player, not an idiot who would call all these bets with just a gut shots or something like that). In my opinion, the only way this hand has significant value
is if you hit a flop of, say, A67 and your opponent has an Ace. You’ll get some action here, and you’ll still have to pray that another Ace (or his kicker) doesn’t show up.

Answer 3:

Suited connectors are excellent heads up, as long as you’re not against an over pair. You should routinely re-raise a late opener (stealer) with 65s and fire again on the flop with any kind of semi-made hand or draw, including gut shots and three card straight flush draws. Three-way is bad, though. Don’t try it if the blinds hate to fold. Ten-way is best. I wrote plenty (need I say good?) on this matter a while ago, so did Abdul (who actually has the best grasp on this subject).

I have the 7 and 6 of spades. The flop shows four spades headed by a 10. There are three players. I get this bad feeling and I figure that all somebody needs to beat me is any one spade higher than a 7—not too unlikely, so I fold to gasps as I expose my flush. The winner had a full house, but all it would have cost me was a $4 call in a pot with maybe $45 in it.

Answer 1:

Your most critical mistake is showing the table that you made a tough laydown. Also, you might need to give some more information about the betting history of the whole hand. Did you bet your flush on the turn? What did the rest of the board look like? What position were you in with regard to the other players? Had there been a bet and a call before you had to decide to call or not?

Answer 2:

Your seven-high flush with 4 of the suit on board *and* a pair is almost worthless against two opponents, unless you have a read that the bettor is bluffing. It depends on how they’ve been playing to that point of course, but you’re almost always beaten.

Answer 3:

It depends, but only a little. In the vast majority of games with any but the craziest or cleverest of opponents, this is a routine fold. There exist folks able to bluff in this spot (presumably they’re in because they had outs to a boat but missed), but they’re quite rare. Less rare are folks who’ll bet two pair here out of sheer cluelessness, but unless you’ve identified your opponent as this type of player, give it a pass. In no case would I show this hand as I fold it. You risk teaching someone to bluff at you in this situation, and that would be quite bad.

I play 3-6-12 Hold’em at Harrah’s in E. Chicago. The bets are 3 before and after the flop, 6 on the turn and 6 or 12 on the river. A raiser on the river can bring a bet of 6 up to 18 (I think) and 12 can be raised to 24. Does this betting structure encourage or discourage loose play? Neoncap suggested to me that loose play is probably more correct. Is it because the higher bets on the river give better implied odds to those on a draw? Or do the big bets discourage draws because of the cost of drawing out? Anyway, the play there is quite loose – they’ll usually play any two suited cards or connectors in any position and 1, 2, and 3 gappers in middle or late position. Money opportunity here or snake pit?

Answer 1:

To me what makes sense is to adapt your play to the conditions rather than try to force the conditions to match your play. It’s not about a loose call. It’s about understanding how the betting structure gives value to certain hand characteristics. It adds implied odds value to suited cards. It makes it more important to get raises in early with big off-suit hands, when you can be surer they are good. Against loose players you should often be raising pre-flop with off-suit hands like AQ and even KJ. The river bet means you should sometimes make more value bets, sometimes try to induce bluffs on the river. It becomes more important to be aware of your opponents bluffing tendencies. The player who thinks the key to playing winning holdem is to play with a tight pre-flop hand selection will often get destroyed with this structure. And, that’s exactly the kind of player you really don’t want at your table anyway. It’s a great structure. There is a reason many card rooms have that flat structure. It’s because the card rooms would just as soon have a cadre of tight players filling up their games every day. But, home games, which are more likely to rely on a cadre of loose players spewing off chips and coming back every week, tend to have escalating limits.

Answer 2:
I would definitely loosen up my starting requirements, especially if the game is passive pre-flop, or when you are in late position and can get in cheaply. The implied odds justify limping in with hands that you would throw away in a “regular” game. If you have a draw after the flop, you would probably want to fold more because the pots will likely be smaller in comparison with the $6 flop bet. When you do have a strong starting hand, be sure to raise and re-raise before the flop to try and thin the field. If you find the raises do not thin the field, you would want to only raise with AA and KK, and don’t be surprised if they don’t hold up. If there are a lot of callers before the flop (which is likely), it will be harder to put people on hands, so you want to play tighter after the flop. Be prepared to release medium strong hands. Don’t be stubborn and assume your “regular” game is the best way to play, regardless of the limits. It is a different game.
Answer 3:
The answer to whether you should play looser depends on what players do on the river when faced with the double bet, because that is what ultimately determines whether your implied odds increase or decrease in that structure. If your opponents routinely fold to a 12 dollar bet/raise if they don’t hit a big hand, then many of your drawing hands do not pay off. But if they routinely call, then it pays to draw. On the other hand, if they fold a lot, it may give you more bluffing opportunities. All in all, I don’t think you should change your strategy much, if any, until you get to the river, because of the *betting structure*. On the other hand, just as in any poker game, if you are faced with a lot of loose calling players, it is profitable to loosen up a little bit (but not as much as them).

 How well does Chip Reese’s 7cs section of S/S hold up today? On a related note, how about the A-5 lowball section as well? 

 Answer 1:

Although the structure of the game described in the stud chapter of Brunson’s landmark compendium is bizarre (limits of 10/20, ante of 2, low card bring-in of 4), the concepts, strategies and tactics discussed in the chapter are as valuable as ever. There isn’t all that much literature on 7-card stud.  Besides reese’s chapter in Brunson’s book, there’s the malmuth/sklansky/zee book, the roy west book, and the George(?) Percy book.  Why not read them all? 

Answer 2:

As for lowball…  if you can find a game, the folks playing it had been playing the same way long before the book was written…  I don’t think much has changed and what is in the book should be good today. 

Answer 3:

The hold’em section holds up pretty well too. In fact, the whole book holds up pretty well.  It’s a pity that Omaha wasn’t a popular game back then.

Hey RGP’ers I will be making my second visit to vegas in the past 6 months and was wondering which casinos, if any, offer the best comps for playing poker. Any and all suggestions or any suggestions on where we should play would be appreciated. I play 7cs.

Answer 1:

Poker comps are not easy as it is typically a lower profit game for casinos. Downtown Casinos offer the best comps and room rates in general. They are much smaller scale and within walking distance to each other so you could stay at maybe the golden nugget and count on always finding a game at Binions. Places on the strip (particularly newer “hot” properties) are very tight with comps, but still may have deals during the week. Mandalay Bay, Excalibur, Bellagio all has decent poker rooms. Bellagio is worth a trip just to watch the local rocks as they interact with tourists. It’s like a nature show where a pack of over the hill lions sits at the watering hole waiting for some fat young antelope come for his first drink.

Answer 2:

go to travelzoo.com they have weekly deals in Vegas on rooms if you cant get comped. Or call ray McIntosh at the Las Vegas Hilton, and tell him your situation, he may be able to get you comped. Last week Mandalay had a 99 bucks/night deal which is pretty good for how nice the rooms are.

Answer 3:

The best deals will be downtown at the Horseshoe. They’ll give you a fairly good poker rate and at least a meal a day. Out on the strip you’ll get a meal every once in a while at the Mirage. I don’t know about the other places because I play higher limits Hold’em and Omaha. I suspect you could get a good deal in some of the casinos that spread low limit games.

Can anyone help me to calculate these odds? If possible can you list the calculations used so I can adapt it for other figures/random situations. A National State Lottery has 42 balls from which a computer randomly draws 7. I can only select 3 numbers. What are the odds of my selection matching any 3 of the 7 numbers drawn in any order.

Answer 1:

You need to calculate two things.
1. The number of ways that 3 numbers can be selected out of 42.
2. The number of such selections that will win.
1. The first number is calculated as
(42)
(3 )
or
42x41x40
————
3x2x1
which equals 11,480
2. The second number is computed as the number of ways that 3 numbers can be taken from a pool of 7. It is calculated as:
(7)
(3)
which equals
7x6x5
———
3×2
or 35
Therefore there are 35/11,480 chances to win or a 1 in 328 chance to win such a lottery.
Answer 2:

It is 50/50 you will are you won’t Stay Lucky O.K. Johnny. I know that this is a little bit high but have fun and play anyway.

Answer 3:

Or another way is 7/42 for your 1st selection to be among the 7 numbers drawn, times 6/41 for your 2nd selection, and times 5/40 for your 3rd selection…7/42 x 6/41 x 5/40 = 1/328…OK?!

I mentioned Four Color Decks to the game runner at a pot limit game and they agreed to try them on a trial basis…now the question is, where to get them? Specifically looking for Kem decks…standard or bridge size.

Answer 1:

IIRC, the 4-color Kem decks are the wrong colors. Mike Caro got the colors right: Green Clubs, Blue Diamonds, Red Hearts, Black Spades. The Kem decks are strange colors.

Answer 2:

Actually, I think its PINK hearts, yellow moons, orange stars, green clovers, and blue diamonds.

Answer 3:

The four color deck at Paradise is simply marvelous! What do we have to do to get casinos to start using them? It would certainly prevent my most embarassing moment last Saturday. I’m ready to scoop with a nice Ace high diamond flush in a Omaha8 kill pot when the guy next to me lays down an 8 high flush with a busted low. “I got the ace,” I said laying the cards out. “Oops, that ace of hearts used to be a diamond. How did that happen?” He scoops huge pot including my raise on the river that he called. ARGHHH!!!!!

Planning a ski trip — yeah, I know it’s early — to Lake Tahoe area next January. Never been there. Anybody tell me where the best HE action is? Also, the best way to get back and forth from slopes to action?

Answer 1:

I went to Reno in November and played holdem at the Circus Circus, Peppermill, and El Dorado…I think the Peppermill was my favorite out of those three (Must be because i was on fire at their 10-20 table). I was also lucky enough to be dealt in when the bad beat was hit at the Circus Circus (The friend i went with hit it!).
I heard also that the Reno Hilton is good, as well as Boomtown casino right outside the city of Reno. Missed Tahoe…next time I will head over there…

Answer 2:

The only current action at Lake Tahoe is at Harvey’s on the South Shore. They almost always have 1-5 7CS and a 2-6 HE game. During the weekends or when there is a reasonable influx of out of town players they get all kinds of games down. I’ve seen 5-10 kill & 10-20 1/2 kill O/8 games, 15-30 and 25-50 HE games, a 7/8 game, and small PLH games. I’m sure others get started. There was a North Shore game but it’s closed for Casino renovations. Check Card Player to see if it’s reopened in Jan. As far as transport: it’s a lake. The roads around it make a big circle. Your options as to how to get anywhere are limited to the point it’s usu. hard to be wrong. From the west/north shore Reno isn’t more than an hour way. Your options in Reno are significantly more varied. If you are skiing the day away on Mt. Rose and want to play poker it’s probably worth it to stay in Reno. But then I’m not entirely sure. My idea of a good time in the winter is to stay close to the fire with a good book.

Answer 3:

If you are staying at South Shore, there is a shuttle bus that runs to Heavenly Ski Area from the casinos and larger motels. There is also shuttle service (for a fee) that will take you to Kirkwood (about 35 miles from South Tahoe) or around the lake to Squaw Valley (also about 35 miles from South Tahoe). Harveys at South Shore is the only place with action, mostly low limit except on weekends or during their tournaments. Reno will have better poker action (Peppermill for middle limit), but you would be better off renting a car and driving to the various ski areas if you stay in Reno. If flying in to the area, you will be going to Reno since commercial air traffic to South Lake Tahoe has been missing for the most part since Air al was bought out by American Airlines (about 12 years ago).

I would like some advice from some more seasoned tournament players on the following: I recently played in a HE tournament with the structure as outlined below:
$100 buy in receives T2000 in chips – one $100 re-buy gets T4000
20 minute rounds as follows
25-50 blinds 50-100 limits
50-100 blinds 100-200 limits
100-200 blinds 200-400 limits
200-400 blinds 400-800 limits
BREAK
500-1000 blinds 1000-2000 limits
1000-2000 blinds 2000-4000 limits
2000-4000 blinds 4000-8000 limits
4000-8000 blinds 8000-16000 limits
5th – 10th pays $200 – remainder is 50% 1st, 25% 2nd, 15% 3rd, 10% 4th.
Changes to no limit at final table…
After playing I felt a bit disappointed, not necessarily because of my performance, but because of the structure of the tourney itself. Note the HUGE jump in blinds/limits from the round immediately before the break to immediately after the break. (200/400/800 to 500/1000/2000). In my particular case, before the break I had played well and had managed to build my stack up from T6000 (initial buy-in + rebuy) to about T10, 000. However, immediately after the break, I realize that although I am 2nd chip leader at my table, I still have enough to barely play 2 hands to completion. In my opinion this took any room for skill out of the tournament and turned it into little more than a crap shoot (i.e. Let’s see who can catch a lucky hand right after the break…). Ironically enough, I busted out a few hands later when the blinds had moved up to 1000-2000, and I had only T2000 left. I was 2 hands away from being blinded off when I got “Jesus” suited (Ac-9c) and went all-in, only to get called by, you guessed it, A-Q. My prayers weren’t answered, however, and I went down with the board of 7-8-J/6-2. So my QUESTIONS for everyone:
a). Would you those of you who consider yourselves to be good
tournament players invest in this tournament, or is it too much luck and not enough skill?
b). what strategies work well when almost the whole table is short
stacked?

Answer 1:

One of the most crucial skills in tournament poker is the ability to make good decisions at the critical time when you have chips to play between 1 and 2 1/2 pots. The skill in this is HUGE. Do you play 44, A9, a player raises you have KQ, passed to you on the bottom with 98s…. bad players make bad decisions. There is still a lot of skill in what you describe, and over time the good players get the money. The correctly playing players get the money. Obviously this structure has a lot of luck to it, but it also involves a lot of skills because crucial decisions will take place *all the time.* Play.

Answer 2:

I was going to reply to your question, but Badger has already said what I wanted to say. I agree with him fully. Also, playing these little tournaments is valuable practice, experience never hurt anyone. You still have a better shot at winning than the average player, it’s just not as big an advantage as a regular paced tournament. When you do play a big tournament though, you’ll welcome the change.

Answer 3:

You played the hand the only way you could. When Badger said you must sell your soul to AJo, you may have misunderstood. He was talking about situations late in a tournament like that, where certain hands become automatic. First one in, you can’t fold the AJ, but if it gets raised that doesn’t mean you have to call. What Badger is saying here, is that in order to WIN these types of tournaments you’ll have to gamble. You won’t get A-A and K-K enough to let you coast to victory. All you can do is put yourself in position to get lucky. Once you’ve done that, TRY to get lucky! Don’t just sit there and let your chips dwindle away because of the blind increases, go to war!! If you keep blasting away, one day it might be your day. Nobody can consistently win a tournament like this, like you said it is a crapshoot…so roll the dice!